当 Zara 两年一度的秋季工作室系列于 10 月 14 日出现在我的收件箱中时,我被著名摄影师 Steven Meisel 拍摄的强烈而充满情感的黑白照片所震撼。这些衣服也让我想为秋天穿好衣服(但 Zara 活动何时不鼓励购物狂潮?)。对于致力于实现可持续发展的快时尚品牌,您可能希望这家总部位于西班牙的零售巨头及其母公司 Inditex(世界上最大的服装供应商 BTW)也在朝着多元化和包容性迈进。所以,我一直在滚动。但我真的没有必要。虽然我很高兴看到身材曲线优美的模特 Precious Lee 和 Yumi Nu 分别身着深色花朵和漂亮的格子花呢外套,但我知道购物网站的页面上是什么,或者普通顾客看到的是什么:高大、瘦女人。
When Zara's biannual Fall Studio Collection hit my inbox on Oct. 14, I was struck by the strong and emotion-filled black-and-white images taken by famed photographer Steven Meisel. The clothes also made me want to get dressed for fall (but when doesn't a Zara campaign encourage a shopping spree?). For a fast fashion brand that's committed to working toward sustainability, you'd hope the Spain-based retail giant and its parent company, Inditex — which is the world's largest apparel supplier, BTW — is also making steps toward diversity and inclusion. So, I kept scrolling. But I didn't really have to. Though I was delighted to see curvy models Precious Lee and Yumi Nu swathed in dark florals and wrapped in a delicious looking plaid tweed coat, respectively, I knew what was on the pages of the shopping site, or what the average customer sees: tall, thin women.
Precious Lee 和 Yumi Nu 做了令人难以置信的工作。 Lee 最近走遍了欧洲的 Lanvin、Balmain 和 Versace 跑道,与纽约相比,这些跑道在历史上缺乏规模包容性。还有像 Jacquemus 和 Sports Illustrated 这样的大牌的 Nu 模特。两位女性也是 Vogue 9 月封面上唯一的大码模特,旨在关注该行业的不同面孔。我喜欢这两个强大的人物被 Vogue 和 Zara 选中,但我也希望这两个品牌能够为更多人提供超越封面和广告的曲线——就像在杂志页面或零售网站上一样.
Precious Lee and Yumi Nu have done incredible work. Lee recently walked the Lanvin, Balmain, and Versace runways in Europe, which historically lack size inclusivity when compared to New York. And Nu models for big names like Jacquemus and Sports Illustrated. Both women were also the only plus-size models on the September cover of Vogue, meant to center on a diverse group of faces in the industry. I love that these same two powerful figures were chosen for Vogue and for Zara, but then I also expect both of these brands to deliver even more people with curves beyond their covers and campaigns — like in the pages of the magazine or on the retail site.
说到 Zara,这种代表性是有限的。除了最近的万圣节系列,你滚动浏览的每个类别都为身材高大、瘦弱的女性展示了衣服——欧洲时尚通常以促进这种体型而闻名。男装部分完全相同,反映在同一个工作室广告中,尽管它是由大卫·西姆斯单独拍摄的。 (为什么我们甚至需要按性别划分线也超出了我的范围。)
When it comes to Zara, that representation is limited. Save for its recent Halloween collection, every category you scroll through presents the clothes on mostly tall, thin women — the body type European fashion has typically been known to promote. The menswear section is quite the same, as reflected in the same Studio campaign, although it was shot separately by David Sims. (Why we even need to divide lines by gender is also beyond me.)
Zara 只是拥有数十亿品牌价值的广受欢迎的零售商的一个例子。每天都有数百万人访问它,其中有一个从 18 岁开始的年龄演示。在那个时候,我们大多数人都展现出了很多自我意识,我们正在努力解决自己的身份问题。我们穿的衣服在这个过程中起着重要的作用,所以很高兴看到更广泛的模特——那些有着不同体型、背景和能力的模特——在我们购买的衣服上合照。而且我知道我不必告诉你美国女性的平均尺码是 14-18,因为你以前听说过这个。
Zara is just one example of a hugely popular retailer with a brand value in the billions. It's visited by millions of people every day with an age demo that starts at 18. That's a time when a lot of self-awareness unfolds for most of us, and we're grappling with our identities. What we wear plays a huge factor in the process, so it would be nice to see a wider range of models — those with all different body types, backgrounds, and abilities — pictured in the clothes that we're buying. And I know I don't have to tell you that the average women's US size is 14-18, because you've heard that one before.
如果您不是奢侈品消费者,并且 Vogue 不是您购物的地方,那么很高兴 Precious Lee 和 Yumi Nu 现在也出现在 Zara 更易于访问的网站上,但代表应该是常态,而不是例外.而且我想我们都知道有两个以上的曲线模特可以在强大的 Zara 活动中大放异彩,更不用说我们花几个小时在 zara.com 上浏览和想象自己的衣服了。毕竟,那些页面上的眼睛和 Vogue 的封面一样多。
If you aren't a luxury consumer, and Vogue isn't where you do your shopping, then it's great that Precious Lee and Yumi Nu are now featured on Zara's more accessible website, too, but representation should be the norm, not the exception. And I think we all know that there are more than two curvy models that would rock the heck out of an empowering Zara campaign, never mind the clothes we spend hours upon hours browsing through and imagining on ourselves via zara.com. There are just as many eyes on those pages, after all, as the cover of Vogue.
Zara's New Campaign Is Great, but Let's Talk About the Lack of Body Diversity Across the Site